Kitbashing EBT #6 -- Part 3

In the previous two posts, I described the history of the East Broad Top's third Number 6, a Baldwin  0-6-0 standard gauge switcher built in 1909.  Number 6 was equipped with dual standard gauge and narrow gauge couplers, allowing it to shift EBT and PRR hoppers in the railroad's dual gauge Mount Union Yard.  In Part 2 I detailed how I modified an AHM Roundhouse Southern Pacific switcher to create a convincing model of EBT #6.  In this post, I will go into detail on how I mounted the dual gauge couplers, created a firebox and backhead to disguise the new can motor, and converted the oil burner tender into a coal tender.

The dual couplers were the most challenging problem.  As you can see from the following photo, the 3/4 size narrow gauge coupler was located immediately below and to the side of the standard gauge coupler.

There's not a lot of clearance between the two knuckle couplers, and in the beginning I gave serious thought to using a Rio Grande type flat car with a standard gauge coupler on one end and a narrow gauge one on the other.  The breakthrough came when I realized that I didn't have to use a Kadee #5 coupler for the standard gauge coupler.  I opted to replace the Kadee #5 with a Kadee #714, which will also mate with a #5.  For the narrow gauge coupler, I chose a Kadee N gauge coupler, which will also mate with a #714.  With the 714 centered, I then used an HOn3 coupler gauge to determine the correct height and location for the narrow gauge coupler.

Since the #714 coupler did not fit the cast bushing on the tender frame, I first filed off the bushing, then drilled and tapped for a 1-72 screw and mounted the 714.  Because of the tight clearance, I had to remove one of the supports for the rear steps.  As you can see below, the removal of the support is almost completely hidden by the couplers.  The N gauge coupler was screwed to a small piece of 3/32" styrene strip.  The styrene and the under side of the tender frame were coated with Liquid PSA cement, allowing me to stick the coupler to the frame for a test fit.

Once I determined the exact location for the N gauge coupler, I cemented the styrene base to the tender frame with ACC cement.  Here is a view of the underside of the tender before painting.

And here is the top view with the tender shell removed.

After testing the couplers on a section  of dual gauge track to make sure the couplers would properly mate with both standard and narrow gauge cars, I turned to the front beam of the locomotive.  Here I am using the gauge to adjust the height and location of the narrow gauge coupler.  Again, the inside support for the near side of the front step has been removed.

And here is a view of the dual couplers mounted on the locomotive beam.

Here is the locomotive frame with the couplers mounted.  Note the screw just forward of the draw bar.  Changing from DC to DCC required a firm electrical connection to the engine frame.  I drilled and tapped a 2-56 hole for a screw to attach the red decoder lead. A similar hole was drilled and tapped in the tender floor, for electrical pickup from the fireman's side of the track.

The can motor sits on an angle to the locomotive frame.  The motor is insulated from the frame with Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker from my local automotive supply house.  The motor fits snugly inside the locomotive shell, with the back of the motor projecting into the cab.

In order to hide the motor, I decided to build up a dummy firebox and backhead for the locomotive.  I used a razor saw to cut a section from a spare engine shell, that would just fit over the back of the motor.  I cut the forward part of the section to fit squarely against the front of the cah.  The back of the section was cut at a slight angle, and a piece of .020 styrene was cemented to form the backhead.  I used brass parts from PSC to add interest to the backhead, including a D&RGW backhead throttle, part 3009; dual guges, part 3226; a Sargent water glass with valves, part 3019; an early steam/air brake stand, part 3094; a set of 4" valve faucet knobs, part 4884; and a clamshell fire door, part 31160.  Here is what the finished backhead looks like after painting and detailing.

There was one more glaring discrepancy in my kit bashed #6.  As you can see from the above photo, number 6 was, like all the other EBT engines, a coal burner  Problem is, the AHM Roundhouse model was of a Southern Pacific oil burner.  I carefully cut away the oil tank, leaving a rectangular opening on the top of the tender.

 In my scrap box I found a disgarded tender with a coal load.  A little cutting and pasting, and you can see the difference.  The large toolbox on the fireman's side was made from scrap styrene.  The two on the other side were commercial tool boxes.

Once the engine is wired for DCC, the headlight will be a surface mounted LED, or SMD.  Here I am threading the LED wires through the stack.  Using a piece of shrink tubing for a guide, the wires will run back between the boiler shell and the weight.  In this photo, I am testing the LED to make sure it works.

There were one or two remaining details.  In the following photo, notice the large air tank beneath the fireman's side of the cab.  There is no tank on the other side.  I  ordered a 24" tank kit from PSC and cut it to approximately the same size as the prototype.

Also notice the unusual roof vent on the cab.  This was scratch built from styrene angle and sheet.  The decals were purchased from Friends of the East Broad Top.  Since #6 was never turned, this is the view that visitors to my layout will have of this distinctive little switcher.

All that remains is to install the Soundtraxx Econami steam decoder.  I hope you have enjoyed this series about kit bashing EBT yard goal #6.